Mysterious Files PH

Wi-Fi! It’s everywhere, and yet you can’t really see it, by virtue of the technology relying on the transmission of electromagnetic waves outside the visual spectrum. Never mind, though, because you can always build yourself a Wi-Fi analyzer to get some insight into your radio surroundings, as demonstrated by [moononournation].

The core of the build is the ESP32-C5. The popular microcontroller is well-equipped for this task with its onboard dual-band Wi-Fi hardware, even if the stock antenna on most devboards is a little underwhelming. [moononournation] has paired this with a small rectangular LCD screen running the ILI9341 controller. The graphical interface is drawn with the aid of the Arduino_GFX library. It shows a graph of access points detected in the immediate area, as well as which channels they’re using and their apparent signal strength.

If you’re just trying to get a basic read on the Wi-Fi environment in a given locale, a tool like this can prove pretty useful. If your desires are more advanced, you might leap up to tinkering in the world of software defined radio. Video after the break.

Probably the biggest story in the world of old cars over the past couple of weeks has been the surfacing of a GM EV1 electric car for sale from an auto salvage yard. This was the famous electric car produced in small numbers by the automaker in the 1990s, then only made available for lease before being recalled. The vast majority were controversially crushed with a few units being donated to museums and universities in a non-functional state.

Finding an old car isn’t really a Hackaday story in itself, but now it’s landed in [The Questionable Garage]. It’s being subjected to a teardown as a prelude to its restoration, offering a unique opportunity to look at the state of the art in 1990s electric automotive technology.

The special thing about this car is that by a murky chain of events it ended up as an abandoned vehicle. GM’s legal net covers the rest of the surviving cars, but buying this car as an abandoned vehicle gives the owner legal title over it and frees him from their restrictions. The video is long, but well worth a watch as we see pieces of automotive tech never before shown in public. As we understand it the intention is to bring it to life using parts from GM’s contemporary S10 electric pickup truck — itself a rare vehicle — so we learn quite a bit about those machines too.

Along the way they find an EV1 charger hiding among a stock of pickup chargers, take us through the vehicle electronics, and find some galvanic corrosion in the car’s structure due to water ingress. The windscreen has a huge hole, which they cover with a plastic wrap in order to 3D scan so they can create a replacement.

This car will undoubtedly become a star of the automotive show circuit due to its unique status, so there will be plenty of chances to look at it from the outside in future. Seeing it this close up in parts though is as unique an opportunity as the car itself. We’ve certainly seen far more crusty conventional cars restored to the road, but without the challenge of zero parts availability and no donor cars. Keep an eye out as they bring it closer to the road.

Some like it flat, and there’s nothing wrong with that. What you are looking at is the first prototype of Atlas by [AsicResistor], which is still a work in progress. [AsicResistor] found the Totem to be a bit cramped, so naturally, it was time to design a keyboard from the ground up.

The case is wood, if that’s not immediately obvious. This fact is easily detectable in the lovely render, but I didn’t want to show you that here.

This travel-friendly keyboard has 34 keys and dual trackpoints, one on each half. If the nubbin isn’t your thing, there’s an optional, oversized trackball, which I would totally opt for. But I would need an 8-ball instead, simply because that’s my number.

A build video is coming at some point, so watch the GitHub, I suppose, or haunt r/ergomechkeyboards.

Flat as it may be, I would totally at least give this keyboard a fair chance. There’s just something about those keycaps, for starters. (Isn’t it always the keycaps with me?) For another, I dig the pinky stagger. I’m not sure that two on each side is nearly enough thumb keys for me, however.

The Foot Roller Scroller Is Not a Crock

Sitting at a keyboard all day isn’t great for anyone, but adding in some leg and/or foot movement throughout the day is a good step in the right direction. Don’t want to just ride a bike all day under your desk? Add something useful like foot pedals.

The Kinesis Savant pedals are a set of three foot switches that are great for macros, or just pressing Shift all the time. Trust me. But [a__b] wasn’t satisfied with mere clicking, and converted their old pedals into a Bluetooth 5.0 keyboard with a big, fat scroll wheel.

Brain-wise, it has a wireless macro keyboard and an encoder from Ali, but [a__b] plans to upgrade it to a nice!nano in order to integrate it with a Glove80.

Although shown with a NautiCroc, [a__b] says the wheel works well with socks on, or bare feet. (Take it from me, the footfeel of pedals is much more accurate with no shoes on.) Interestingly, much of the inspiration was taken from sewing machines.

As of this writing, [a__b] has mapped all keys using BetterTouchTool for app-specific action, and is out there happily scrolling through pages, controlling the volume, and navigating YouTube videos. Links to CAD and STLs are coming soon.

The Centerfold: LEGO My Ergo

This here is a Silakka 54 split keyboard with a custom LEGO case available on Thingiverse. [Flat-Razzmatazz-672] says that it isn’t perfect (could have fooled me!), but it did take a hell of a lot of work to get everything to fit right.

As you might imagine and [Flat-Razzmatazz-672] can attest, 3D printing LEGO is weird. These studs are evidently >= 5% bigger than standard studs, because if you print it as is, the LEGO won’t fit right.

Via reddit

Do you rock a sweet set of peripherals on a screamin’ desk pad? Send me a picture along with your handle and all the gory details, and you could be featured here!

Historical Clackers: the North’s was a Striking Down-striker

Although lovely to gaze upon, the North’s typewriter was a doomed attempt at creating a visible typewriter. That is, one where a person could actually see what they were typing as they typed it.

North’s achieved this feat through the use of vertical typebars arranged in a semi-circle that would strike down onto the platen from behind, making it a rear down-striker.

In order for this arrangement to work, the paper had to be loaded, coiled into one basket, and it was fed into another, hidden basket while typing. This actually allowed the typist to view two lines at a time, although the unfortunate ribbon placement obstructed the immediate character.

The story of North’s typewriter is a fairly interesting one. For starters, it was named after Colonel John Thomas North, who wasn’t really a colonel at all. In fact, North had very little to do with the typewriter beyond bankrolling it and providing a name.

North started the company by purchasing the failed English Typewriter Company, which brought along with it a couple of inventors, who would bring the North’s to fruition. The machine was made from 1892 to 1905. In 1896, North died suddenly while eating raw oysters, though the cause of death was likely heart failure. As he was a wealthy, unpopular capitalist, conspiracy theories abounded surrounding his departure.

Finally, MoErgo Released a New Travel Keyboard, the Go60

It’s true, the MoErgo Glove80 is great for travel. And admittedly, it’s kind of big, both in and out of its (very nice) custom zipper case. But you asked, and MoErgo listened. And soon enough, there will be a new option for even sleeker travel, the Go60. Check out the full spec sheet.

You may have noticed that it’s much flatter than the Glove80, which mimics the key wells of a Kinesis Advantage quite nicely.

Don’t worry, there are removable palm rests that are a lot like the Glove80 rests. And it doesn’t have to be flat –there is 6-step magnetic tenting (6.2° – 17°), which snaps on or off in seconds. The palm rests have 7-step tenting (6°-21.5°), and they come right off, too.

Let’s talk about those trackpads. They are Cirque 40 mm Glidepoints. They aren’t multi-touch, but they are fully integrated into ZMK and thus are fully programmable, so do what you will.

Are you as concerned about battery life as I am? It’s okay — the Go60 goes fully wired with a TRRS cable between the halves, and a USB connection from the left half to the host. Although ZMK did not support this feature, MoErgo sponsored the founder, [Pete], to develop it, and now it’s just a feature of ZMK. You’re welcome.

Interested? The Go60 will be on Kickstarter first, and then it’ll be available on the MoErgo site. Pricing hasn’t quite been worked out yet, so stay tuned on that front.

Via reddit

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Got a hot tip that has like, anything to do with keyboards? Help me out by sending in a link or two. Don’t want all the Hackaday scribes to see it? Feel free to email me directly.

One of the major difficulties in studying electricity, especially when compared to many other physical phenomena, is that it cannot be observed directly by human senses. We can manipulate it to perform various tasks and see its effects indirectly, like the ionized channels formed during lightning strikes or the resistive heating of objects, but its underlying behavior is largely hidden from view. Even mathematical descriptions can quickly become complex and counter-intuitive, obscured behind layers of math and theory. Still, [lcamtuf] has made some strides in demystifying aspects of electricity in this introduction to analog filters.

The discussion on analog filters looks at a few straightforward examples first. Starting with an resistor-capacitor (RC) filter, [lcamtuf] explains it by breaking its behavior down into steps of how the circuit behaves over time. Starting with a DC source and no load, and then removing the resistor to show just the behavior of a capacitor, shows the basics of this circuit from various perspectives. From there it moves into how it behaves when exposed to a sine wave instead of a DC source, which is key to understanding its behavior in arbitrary analog environments such as those involved in audio applications.

There’s some math underlying all of these explanations, of course, but it’s not overwhelming like a third-year electrical engineering course might be. For anyone looking to get into signal processing or even just building a really nice set of speakers for their home theater, this is an excellent primer. We’ve seen some other demonstrations of filtering data as well, like this one which demonstrates basic filtering using a microcontroller.

This week Jonathan chats with Konstantinos Margaritis about SIMD programming. Why do these wide data instructions matter? What’s the state of Hyperscan, the project from Intel to power regex with SIMD? And what is Konstantinos’ connection to ARM’s SIMD approach? Watch to find out!

• VectorCamp:https://vectorcamp.gr
• SIMD Info: https://simd.info
• SIMD AI: https://simd.ai
• VSCode plugin: https://code.simd.info

Did you know you can watch the live recording of the show right on our YouTube Channel? Have someone you’d like us to interview? Let us know, or have the guest contact us! Take a look at the schedule here.

Direct Download in DRM-free MP3.

If you’d rather read along, here’s the transcript for this week’s episode.

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Theme music: “Newer Wave” Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)

Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License

Color 3D printing has gone mainstream, and we expect more than one hacker will be unpacking one over the holidays. If you have, say, a color inkjet printer, the process is simple: print. Sure, maybe make sure you tick the “color” box, but that’s about it. However, 3D printers are a bit more complicated.

There are two basic phases to printing color 3D prints. First, you have to find or make a model that has different colors. Even if you don’t make your own models (although you should), you can still color prints in your slicer.

The second task is to set the printer up to deal with those multiple colors. There are several different ways to do this, and each one has its pros and cons. Of course, some of this depends on your slicer, and some depends on your printer. For the purposes of this post, I’ll assume you are using a Slic3r fork like Prusa or OrcaSlicer. Most of the lower-priced printers these days work in roughly the same way.

Current State of Color

In theory, there are plenty of ways to 3D print in color. You can mix hot plastic in the nozzle or use multiple nozzles, each loaded with a different color. But most entry-level color printers use a variation of the same technique. Essentially, they are just like single-nozzle FDM printers, but they have three extra pieces. First, there is a sensor that can tell if filament is in the hot end or not. There’s also a blade above the hot end but below the extruder that can cut the filament off cleanly on command. This usually involves having the hot end ram some actuator that pushes the spring-loaded knife through the filament.

The third piece is some unit to manage moving a bunch of filaments in and out of the hot end. Everyone calls this something else. Bambu calls it an AMS while Flashforge calls it an IFS. Prusa has an MMU. Whatever you call it, it just moves cold filament around: either pushing it into the extruder or pulling it out.

Every filament change starts with cutting the filament below the extruder. That leaves the stringy melted part down in the nozzle. Then the extruder can pull the rest up until the management unit can take over and pull it totally out of the hot end/extruder assembly. That’s why there’s a sensor. It pulls until it sees that the extruder is empty or it times out and throws an error.

Then it is simple enough to move another filament back into the extruder. Of course, the first thing it has to do is push the leftover filament out of the nozzle. Most printers move to a bin and extrude until they are sure the color has changed. However,  there are other options.

Even if you push out all the old filament, you may want to print a little waste piece of the new filament before you start printing, and this is called a purge block. Slicers can also push purge material into places like your infill, for example. Some can even print objects with the purge, presumably an object that doesn’t have to look very nice. Depending on your slicer, printer, and workflow, you can opt to print without a purge block, which can work well when you have a part where each layer is a solid color. Some printers will let you skip the discharge step, too, which is often called “poop.”

One caveat, of course, is that all this switching logic takes time and generates waste. A good rule of thumb is to try to print many objects at one time if you are going to switch filament, because the changes are what take time and generate waste. Printing dozens of objects will generate essentially the same amount of waste as printing one. Of course, printing a dozen objects will take longer than a single one, but the biggest part of the time is filament changes, which doesn’t change no matter how many or few you print.

Get Ready to Print

We’ve talked before about creating your own color objects. We’ve even seen how to do it in TinkerCad. Of course, you can also load designs that already have color in them. However, there are several different ways to put color into an otherwise monochrome print.

First, you can take a regular print and use your slicer’s paint function to paint areas with different colors. That works, but it is often tedious, and for complex shapes, it is error-prone. Another downside is that you can’t really control the depth easily, so you get strange filament shifts inside the object if you do it that way.

In Orca, you can select an object in the Prepare screen and then use N, or the toolbar, to bring up the paint color dialog. From there, you can pick a brush shape, pen size, and color. Then it is easy to just paint where you like by left-dragging. You can remove paint by pressing Shift while clicking or dragging. Press the little question mark at the bottom left to see other options.

Once you make a color print, the slicer will automatically place a purge block for you unless you turn it off. Assuming you use it, it is a good idea to drag it on the build plate to be closer to the print, which can shave a few minutes of travel time.

From Many, One

Possibly the easiest way, other than not printing in color, of course, is to have each part of the model that needs to be one color as a separate STL file, as we talked about in the previous post. You tell the slicer which part goes with which filament, and you are done.

In Orca, the best way to do this is to import several STL models at one time. The software will ask you: “Load these files as a single object with multiple parts?” If you agree, you get one object made of individual pieces.

The resulting object won’t look much different until you go to “Process”, on the left-hand side of the screen, and switch from the default Global to Objects. From there, you’ll see the objects and their components. At first, each one will be set to the same color, but by clicking on the color box, you can assign different colors. In the screenshot, you’ll see two identical objects, each with two parts. Each part has a different color. The number is the extruder that holds that color.

There is another way, though. You can avoid almost all of the waste generation and extra time if your model is designed so that each layer is a single color. People have done this for years, where you put a pause in your G-code and then switch filament manually. The idea is the same but the printer can switch for you. For example, the Christmas Tree ornament uses two filament changes to print white, then green, then white again. This works great for lettering and logos and other simple setups where you simply need some contrast.

In Orca, you’ll want to slice your model once and switch to the preview tab. Using the vertical slider on the right-hand side, adjust the view until it shows you where you want the filament change. Then right-click and select “Change Filament.” This is the same way you add a pause if you want to change filament manually, for example.

If you use this method, remember to turn off the purge block. You don’t really need it.

Summary

So now, when you unwrap that shiny new multimaterial printer, you have a plan. Get a color model or color one yourself. Then you can decide if you need color changes or full-blown, and waste-prone, color printing. Either way, have fun!

An unlikely hit of the last few months’ consumer hardware has been a power bank branded by the German confectionery company Haribo. It first gained attention in backpacking circles because of its high capacity for a reasonable weight, and since then has been selling like the proverbial hot cakes. Now Amazon have withdrawn it from their store over “A potential safety or quality issue”. The industrial imaging company Lumafield have taken a look at the power bank with a CT scanner, to find out why.

As you might imagine, the power bank is all battery inside, with pouch type lithium ion cells taking up all of the space. Immediately a clue appears as to why Amazon withdrew them, as the individual layers of the cells are misaligned, laying open a risk of failure. They also take a look at a set of earbuds from the same source and find something even more concerning — torn electrodes. Thus neither device can be regarded as safe, and the backpackers will have to haul around a little bit more in the future.

You’ll not find the Wrencher on a power bank, but you can be sure if you did, we’d make sure there was an element of quality control at play. Meanwhile we feel slightly sorry for the branding executive responsible at Haribo, who we are guessing has had a bad day. We’ve featured Lumafield’s work here before quite a few times, most recently looking at similar defects in 18650 cells.