Mysterious Files PH

Between the speed and reliability of modern desktop 3D printers and the abundance of powerful single-board computers, there’s never been a better time to build a personal computing device that bucks traditional forms for something more bespoke. Whether you want to go all in on Gibsonian cyberdeck aesthetic or a distraction-free writing device to take notes on, there’s no shortage of examples out there that you can turn to for inspiration.

A recent entry into the field, the Don’t Panic Cyberdeck from [Paul Rickards], is a particularly approachable specimen for those looking to experiment with alternative computing experiences. While the final product certainly stands out among the throngs of nearly identical laptops, it doesn’t take a huge investment in time or money to put one of your own together.

Which is not to say the project is simplistic, exactly. Rather, as [Paul] released the design under the Creative Commons license and was kind enough to provide not only a detailed Bill of Materials but assembly instructions, the community is able to benefit from the sleepless nights he no doubt put into it.

In it’s baseline configuration, the Don’t Panic uses a Raspberry Pi 3A+, a Pimoroni HyperPixel 4.0 Square LCD (touch optional), and a Rii 518BT keyboard. Those core components would be enough to get you up and running, but if you want battery power you’ll also need to add a LX-2BUPS UPS board and a pair of 18650 cells. Audio might be nice as well, and for that [Paul] recommends a PAM8403 breakout board. He’s even got a printable volume knob that slips over the board’s potentiometer and peeks outside the case.

Of course, the best cyberdeck builds are customized to meet their owner’s specific needs, so your loadout doesn’t need to match [Paul]’s exactly. Except the handle, anyway. That feature is non-negotiable. Mainstream computers have far too few handles for our liking.

We cover so many projects here at Hackaday that lead the author down a rabbit hole of technological investigation that distracts us from the task of bringing them to you. Such a project is polyUAnalog, a very modern take on an analogue synthesizer. If you are imagining a synth of old with modules and patch cables, think again. The modern way to do this is it seems to use an individual synthesizer chip for each voice, resulting in a very versatile instrument indeed.

The integrated circuit in question is the AS3397, which when coupled on a PCB with a Raspberry Pi Pico makes for a self-contained single-voice analog synth. It’s controlled via I2C from a conductor board for which frustratingly the README doesn’t give a processor, but we think may be powered by another Pi Pico. This board does the job of taking MIDI and other controls, and farming them out tot he individual voices. The prototype has ten, but it can support many more.

It’s the work of a pair of researchers from the University of Angers in France, and we’re told it’s a side project from their work in the field of spectroscopy. There’s a video about it which we’ve placed below the break, and they’ve also written a paper about it.

This is one of those hacks that makes you stop in your tracks and say, “wait, you can do that!?” — before realizing, oh, yes, of course you can do that. With enough computational power, you can do a lot of things, and the Raspberry Pi 5 is a far cry from the single-board computer’s humble beginnings. In this case, the “you can do that!?” is both that [Oliver] was able to get the digital audio TOSLINK working via an LED tied to one GPIO pin on the Pi, but also the larger project that is embedded in: using the Pi as a full featured 8-channel USB sound card called Camilla DSP.

For the first one: the old TOSLink standard is very simple, and all you need to do is blink an LED quickly enough. Considering the clock frequency of the Pi 5 is in the GHz range and the TOSLINK is the same 3.1 Mbit/s S/PDIF signal you could pull off your CD-ROM drive to your Sound Blaster, there’s no problem there. Except, wouldn’t the operating system get in the way? Well, not when you have enough clock cycles to throw at the problem. Using a Pi 5 doesn’t hurt: the RP1 I/O chip included on the board is keeping things smooth with its included PIO while Linux mucks about in the background. There’s a reason we called it the most important product Raspberry Pi ever made.

As for making a USB sound card from an SBC — well, we’re not sure why that got the “you can do that” reaction. The Raspberry Pi family had ‘gadget mode’ for over a decade now, allowing you to present the computer as a USB device, so why not a sound card? That’s a valid class of USB device.

This week Jonathan chats with Andrea Gallo about RISC-V! What does it mean for RISC-V to be an Open ISA? Where is RISC-V popping up, and what’s the new frontier? Watch to find out!

• NVIDIA Talk
• Training Courses
• RISC-V Keynote: The Architecture of Intelligence: From Data Center to Edge
• RISC-V Developer Workshops

Did you know you can watch the live recording of the show right on our YouTube Channel? Have someone you’d like us to interview? Let us know, or have the guest contact us! Take a look at the schedule here.

Direct Download in DRM-free MP3.

If you’d rather read along, here’s the transcript for this week’s episode.

Theme music: “Newer Wave” Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)

Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License

Even with Amazon’s Echo Show devices running Linux in the form of the Android-derived FireOS, using them for non-Amazon approved purposes can be a chore at best. In the case of the Echo Show 8 even simple workarounds using ADB and the bootloader have been locked-down, requiring more drastic measures. Here [Vowed] over at the XDA forums shows off one such hack, involving directly tapping into the device’s eMMC.

Suffice it to say that this is not a hack for the faint of heart, with even the iFixit teardown guide for this device being rather daunting. Even after you get access to the mainboard, you still have to remove or cut open the metal can that covers the eMMC, so that you can unleash an eMMC programmer on it. It’s best to make sure to make a backup image of the original contents too, just in case you have to restore things.

With the shield out of the way you can solder fine wires to pads that connect to the eMMC to program it. You also have to solder wires to pads for the UART, though if you’re fancy you can also create a custom pogo pin adapter. With a serial connection established to the original firmware you can then enable features like ADB, and courtesy of the connected eMMC adapter it’s possible to directly alter system files to make rooting as easy as possible.

In addition to rooting the system you can also do a straight replacement of the eMMC contents, such as the demonstrated Debian installation. Even if not the most easy of mods, it’s good to see that it’s possible to repurpose these devices.

(Top image: Amazon Echo Show 8 3rd generation mainboard. Credit: iFixit, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.)

In some parts of Canada, you’ll rarely hear someone use the phrase “whatever paddles your canoe” instead of the more usual “whatever floats your boat”– and apparently, at least for one Swede, that’s steam power. The video, linked and embedded below, is a detailed tour of a canoe equipped with a small boiler and an outboard motor that has been converted to run using steam pressure by [Kenneth Karlsson].

The canoe itself appears to be a Grumman of the “prospector” type, wide in body to hold all the gear you’d need for extended wilderness trips– or, in this case, a small boiler. Amidships is the ideal place, as it won’t affect the balance of the boat. Amidships is an odd place to put an outboard– in the North American homeland of the canoe, if you aren’t moving under your own power, it is more common to cut off the curved stern of the canoe and mount the outboard to the newly-made transom. [Karlsson]’s choice to put the outboard off one side will be less maneuverable than a stern mount, but saves the need to modify the canoe and makes for much shorter steam lines. Shorter steam lines means less hose to potentially leak and scald the occupants, as well as fewer losses, so we can’t really argue with the tradeoffs.

The engine is an old two-stroke outboard that has a single steam cylinder retrofitted to it, along with a heat exchanger to warm up lake water with exhaust steam before it heads the boiler. The water is filtered first, of course, but we do hope the new owner– who posts on YouTube with channel “Steam Canoe” is diligent about cleaning the boiler. It doesn’t look like super high pressure steam, but the vapour phase of water is always something to be respected.

If the potential of scalding steam leaks and boiler explosions put you off, but you still won’t pick up a paddle, canoes can be rigged with sails— or you can just hand the paddle to a robot arm. Though given this is Hackaday, maybe you’d rather skip the canoe and climb aboard the good ship Benchy instead.

Sold by German DIY store OBI, the OBI Energy Tracker is a €15 set of two devices, one of which you essentially stick on top of your existing electricity meter. This then allows for electricity usage to be measured and tracked, with the data sent to the second, gateway device. This latter cloud-bound device is linked to an OBI account via the heyOBI app. This correspondingly called for the gateway device to be reverse-engineered and freed from its cloud-based shackles, a task that [Aaron Christophel] happily took upon himself.

The whole process is also covered in two videos, with the first providing all the essentials on reprovisioning the original firmware for a local MQTT server in English, while the second, German-language video focuses on custom firmware for the ESP32-C3 inside of the gateway device.

Inside the reader device is a Cortex-M0+-based BAT32G135 MCU that communicates with the meter via its IR protocol. This is then communicated via 868 MHz LoRa to the gateway device that will be placed somewhere within Wi-Fi reach by the user. Inside this latter device is as mentioned the ESP32-C3, which by default runs firmware that communicates via secure MQTT with an AWS cloud instance for the typical cloud-based shenanigans.

The aforementioned reprovisioning option doesn’t require firmware flashing, just a handful of steps to follow. This involves fetching the 32-bit TEA key, generating your own PKI, running your own MQTTS-capable broker and having the provided Python script handle the rest from there.

Flashing custom firmware is the other option, with straightforward UART/JTAG reflashing sadly disabled by the manufacturer. With the effort required here you could perhaps argue that simply connecting the reader device to a custom gateway device might be a lot easier, especially if you already have a LoRa transceiver and associated hardware.