Mysterious Files PH

Valve recently began shipping its long-awaited VR headset, the Steam Frame. Now, there is a hardware reference repository that includes everything a budding modder might need, and then some.

Want to design and 3D print some add-ons, or a carrying case, or some other doodad? There’s no need to break out the calipers or 3D scan the hardware. The repository contains STEP format models of the VR core module, head strap, and controllers, so it’s as easy as possible to design things that’ll fit. The location of the IR tracking LEDs embedded in the controllers is also documented, so one can ensure their design doesn’t occlude them.

That’s not all. The Frame has a user-accessible hardware expansion port at its front. This port exposes two interfaces: high-speed MIPI camera and PCI Express. This expansion port is documented in the repository, and even has a simple reference design built in both KiCad and Altium.

We’re glad to see Valve maintain their hacker-friendly hardware design with the Steam Frame. Demand for The Frame outstrips supply so far, so if you’re on the waitlist, you might want to browse the repository and get an early start on whatever customizations you have in mind while you wait for your confirmation. And when you get something working, drop us a note on the tips line!

Finding inexpensive broken hardware for sale, buying it, and restoring it to working condition is a long-standing tradition for hackers on a limited budge. But there are some devices that are so difficult to repair that it’s usually not worth the trouble. [Vintage560] is braver than most, though, and restored an internally-damaged Casio AW-330-AT altimeter watch.

The exterior of the watch was in good condition, other than missing a readily-replaced strap, but the battery had leaked into the interior, and the watch didn’t respond in any way to new batteries. Cleaning out the guts with isopropyl alcohol, repositioning a plastic insulator, and bending some contacts back into shape at least got some segments of the LCD display to activate, while over two days of turning the crown smoothed out resistance in the analog train.

Actually getting the LCD to work properly required disassembling the watch, taking particular care with the altitude sensor. It wasn’t clear what was wrong with the LCD — the controller seemed to be working properly, and several rounds of cleaning and adjusting the ZEBRA connector didn’t make any difference.

Eventually, [Vintage560] simply purchased a new screen. On close inspection, it looked as though chemicals from the leaking battery might have dissolved some of the transparent indium tin oxide contacts on the old display. With the watch now working [Vintage560] tested it on a trip to the Alps, and with a few periodic calibrations, it remained quite accurate.

Usually when we see Casio watch hacks, the watch in question is the F91W, whether it’s being used for contactless payments, being retrofitted as a smartwatch, or going 5,000 meters underwater.

Recently [Riley] got his paws on an old Prusa i3 FDM printer that had clearly seen better days, with a hot-end that had suffered an explosive blow-out. For the project he had in mind this was of course perfect, as his intention was to replace the hot-end with a syringe system for embedded 3D printing (E3DP), which uses a supportive medium to allow for the printing of materials and structures that would be impossible with just air.

Generally in additive manufacturing (AM) methods like fused deposition modelling (FDM) the material is extruded onto a build plate or a previous layer where it solidifies. This works great for materials like thermoplastics, but for other materials having only the surrounding air as support is just a recipe for a big mess. With E3DP the liquid is instead extruded into a supportive material at a selectable depth and volume, opening up a whole range of possibilities.

In a 2026 review article by [Rongji Tang] et al. in Frontiers in Materials provide an overview of the state-of-the-art in E3DP, including many ongoing research questions pertaining to print quality, the types of supportive material and their potential reuse, as well as extrusion control. Applications for E3DP are many, with it seeing use in flexible- and soft robotics, printing biological tissues and microfluidics.

While some types of fluids are easier to print than others, Newtonian fluids like silicone oil pose issues with reliable printing, as detailed by [Hejoon Jun] et al. in a 2025 paper in Applied Materials & Interfaces, while a 2026 paper by [Min Ye] et al. in International Journal of Extreme Manufacturing covers the challenges of printing living tissues this way, with a self-healing supporting medium described, creating a method called EPICS.

In the video by [Riley] the fundamentals are explained in a comprehensive manner, before building an E3DP setup, with an open source Allstruder syringe pump and a Caribou Duet 3 motherboard replacing the Prusa parts. Following this a test print is made using cream cheese as it’s apparently an ideal test material.

After a successful cream cheese test, a print is started involving two-part epoxy, with the supporting material being hair gel. The epoxy, once mixed, has only a time window of about forty minutes before it hardens, so that’s all the time you have to empty the syringe. As it turns out, hair gel and epoxy aren’t friends, so for a final print the printing material was switched to silicone, specifically Sylgard 184.

Although not a perfect result, it’s pretty cool to see the silicone trifold torus take shape in what appears to be a void. Unfortunately the hair gel doesn’t appear to be a perfect material either, as some of the additives in it apparently inhibit the silicone from curing. As reported by [Riley] in a comment to the video, the silicone print was still goopy after a few days.

We hope that it’ll cure before long, and wish him luck in finding a supporting material that’s more supportive of printing materials like silicone actually curing.

Flying and driving simulators can go as far as money will take you, and at some point it might end up being cheaper to buy a plane or race car than to keep adding capabilities to some of the sim rigs we’ve seen. But it can also be a fairly affordable hobby as well, with entry-level components being within reach for many. The price can drop precipitously from there too, provided some parts can be sourced and a 3D printer is made available, and [Jason] is demonstrating one of the lowest-cost H-shifters we’ve seen which only uses two parts at its core.

The two components only cover the electronics for the build, but this gets almost everything needed for the shifter squared away. A joystick like those found inside many game controllers is paired with an Arduino Pro Micro, with a very straightforward wiring configuration between them. These components are paired with a prototype 3D printed case and shift knob which provides the H pattern of choice. From there it’s as simple as uploading some readily-available firmware, which [Jason] also demonstrates, and which has many options for various configurations of shifters.

Although this was just a prototype, it shows was just a few off-the-shelf components and a 3D printer can provide to an affordable driving sim setup. Even then a 3D printer is not always necessary, like this three-pedal setup using extruded aluminum frame as a base. From there, all kinds of other features can be added like force feedback on the steering wheel.

This week, Elliot Williams and Kristina Panos met a few minutes later than usual, and somehow defeated a buzz together with the power of will before settling into the news, rifling through the Mailbag, and otherwise creating the attached podcast.

So, the news. Amazon, in their infinite wisdom, have chosen to not only remove Alexa’s aux port on future models, but also disable the input on extant ones. Is this really bad news? Maybe just because it seems like taking a choice away for the sake of exerting power over the people.

Anyway. In Hackaday news, the Retrocomputing Contest is currently on fire, and runs through 10AM PDT on Tuesday, October 27th. That means you have about 2.5 weeks left.

Supercon Ten ticket sales are similarly aflame, and per Elliot, it’s about time to release the next round of speakers. So, watch for that.

After digging deep in the Mailbag and eventually just dumping the thing out on the table, we found our brand new Hackaday Podcast Mailbag Audio Bumper! This jingle comes courtesy of [Dakota Winslow], who also advises that there are Easter eggs to be found.

Then, it was on to the hacks, including Elliot’s record-tying number of Quick Hacks, and plenty of in-linkage.

Check out the links below if you want to follow along, and as always, tell us what you think about this episode in the comments!

Download in lovely MP3.

Episode 390 Show Notes:

News:

• With Latest Update, Alexa Refuses To Pass The Aux
• Retrocomputing Contest
• 2026 Hackaday Superconference Tickets, Friday, November 6-Sunday, November 8  •  10 AM-7:30 PM

Mailbag:

• Check out our new Hackaday Podcast Mailbag Audio Bumper!  Thanks [Dakota]!

Interesting Hacks of the Week:

• The World’s Smallest TV Console Plays DOOM
• Conveyor Belt GBoard Brings The Keys To You
  • ErgoDex DX1 Input System – Detailed Specification Sheet
• How To Grow A Giant Crystal From Copper Sulfate
  • Automated Rig Grows Big, Beautiful Crystals Fast
• Porting Video Games To VHS
  • Wikipedia: Dragon’s Lair
• Keep That Old Radio Alive With An ESP32
• Gardening With…OpenSCAD?

Quick Hacks:

• Elliot’s Picks:
  • 2026 Retrocomputing Challenge: Retro Terminal Bartop Arcade Topper
  • Solve Your TTL Video Woes With An RP2350
  • The Commodore 64 Keyboard Font, For Everyone
  • You Know This Font, But You Don’t Really Know It
  • Building A Cheap, Dexterous Robot Hand
• Kristina’s Picks:
  • Don’t Try This At Home, Transcranial Magnetic Stimulation Edition
  • Electronic Busy Board Is Fun For Kids And Hackers
  • A Mechanical Radio, Sort Of

Can’t-Miss Articles:

• Lead A Discord Exodus With A Matrix Server
• A Headset Fit For A Hackaday Writer

Mechanical and prone to failure, switches can seem quaint these days. Plus, everyone is used to having touch screens on their phones and other devices. So why not use touch sensors on your next project? [Tarantula3] has details on using the TP223 instead of ordinary switches.

These inexpensive modules work through plastic, glass, or wood, opening up many interesting possibilities for building a front panel. Of course, the thicker the surface above the module, the less sensitive the switch is, but that’s not always a bad thing. In particular, you may want to reduce sensitivity anyway. Thicker panels, reducing the size of the touch pad, or adding an external capacitor can reduce the sensor’s range.

You may be worried about eating up batteries with a bunch of electronic switches. But according to [Tarantula3], the modules consume less than 2 microamps at rest. You can configure the modules with our favorite scripting language: solder. There are two jumpers, initially unsoldered, and this results in four possible states. By default, the output goes high when someone is touching the sensor and stays high until they release.

However, you can solder jumper A to invert the output. Jumper B causes the switch output to toggle on each press. Of course, you can also do both jumpers, which toggles but has the opposite default state. If you get false triggers, consider adding a small capacitor to filter the power supply to the module.

These would be great “drop ins” for 3D printing to add switches to your designs. You might even be able to use these as power switches with a little work.

Repurposing old smartphones for more general purpose computing isn’t a new thing, but the project by [LastComputer] ups the ante by going from a Samsung Galaxy S23 that looks like it got run over by at least a few cars to a very serviceable gaming computer, courtesy of its Snapdragon 8 Gen 2 SoC.

The somehow still working but definitely worse for wear phone was purchased for 1,700 Ukrainian Hryvnia (~$40). It being SIM locked also helped reduce the price, even if someone had somehow wanted to use it again as a phone. Since the SoC inside is also used in quite capable gaming handhelds, but with good cooling, that would be a real waste.

Converting it into proper gaming system requires some careful disassembly, some gentle whacking with a hammer to straighten out the frame and a new battery as the mainboard won’t work without one installed.

A 3D-printed phone case glued to an SSD cage for the 512 GB SSD serves as the enclosure, along with two USB hubs, one of which also provides HDMI output. For the active cooling system a heatsink was hot-glued to the vapor chamber with a properly sized fan mounted to it. Here we could definitely see some zip ties being added to prevent it from falling off.

Compared to running the phone in its stock cooling configuration this shaves off about seven degrees C, with thermal throttling noticeably reduced. This consequently provides a much better desktop experience in Samsung’s DeX (Desktop eXperience) desktop mode, which is what’s used for running applications and games.

Running God of War as an emulated PS2 game works pretty well, as does running games with the Dolphin emulator and the GameHub app using which PC games on Steam, GoG and others can be run. Although you can also install other OSes on the phone hardware, Samsung DeX doesn’t appear to be a bad option if you happen to repurpose a high-end Samsung phone that supports this mode.