Mysterious Files PH

It’s become an accepted truth amongst tapeheads that there’s no point looking at new hardware, because there’s only one tape mechanism being made anywhere in the world anymore, and that it sucks. [VWestlife] may enjoy German automobiles, based on the name, but he’s also a tapehead– and he took the time to demonstrate on YouTube that the accepted truth just ain’t so.

The supposed One Mechanism to Rule Them All in Lo-Fi is designed or made by Chinese company Tanishin. Certainly Tanishin does make a tape mechanism, but as [VWestlife] demonstrates with a few teardowns, there’s absolutely more than one on the market. That doesn’t mean any of the new offerings will out-compete your vintage Sony Walkman, but it does mean there are differences worth considering if you were to buy new.

Note that it is handhelds like the Walkman being talked about– it must be, since there are both slot-loading and flip-loading decks still being made, and even if you’re not a tapehead you should be able to tell that those won’t share the same part on the BOM.

With a few teardowns, he finds three separate mechanisms, followed by a deep-dive into the Tanishin. If you’re looking to buy a new walkman– or perhaps use its guts to build a mass storage device-– you might want to watch the whole thing to help you pick. On the other hand, the mechanism doesn’t matter that much, as he points out. It brings the tape over the head, but that’s not difficult. Everything else– from the motor that needs to draw the tape out evenly, to the pickup and the preamps and amplifiers–is where noise and poor quality sound tends to creep in, especially when something’s built to a budget.

Overall, [VWestlife] takes pains to point out that these ‘crappy’ new players aren’t any worse than the original Sony Walkman– we’ve just been spoiled by decades of better media than the humble compact cassette. That’s no slight against the cassette– people are still pushing its limits to this day, like this insanely fast vacuum-driven mechanism we featured.

Thanks to [Stephen Walters] for the tip!

Although the thought of installing a modern operating system like Windows 11 on something as archaic as a Core 2 Quad Q6600 Intel CPU may seem ridiculous, it being the flagship CPU of the time means that it still chews up low-end Celeron systems that are on the supported hardware list like the N4020. Hence [Omores] commencing on this latest adventure, with the snag being that the chosen mainboard features an AGP bus that Windows 11 no longer supports.

This system is intended to multi-boot a range of Windows OSes starting with Windows 98, while also playing nice with DOS and even Windows 11. In addition to the quad-core, 2.4 GHz Q6600 there’s also an amazing 3 GB of DDR1 RAM in the system.

The mainboard is the 2003-era Asrock 865PE, with the GPU being the highest-end GPU that still came in AGP flavor: the Radeon HD 4650 from 2009. Since the sole reason that Windows 11 doesn’t support AGP any more is due to the supporting files not being included with Windows 11, hence you can track it down on a Windows 10 1507 release install – such as the Intel AGP440.sys driver here – and install them with some file editing.

Since Windows 11 still supports the WDDM driver model from Windows Vista and 7 you can then install the Catalyst drivers from 2012 and be up and running. You only get 1 GB of VRAM for this card, but you probably don’t need much more on this level of hardware.

One major stumbling block remains, however, as Windows 11 24H2 enforces SSE4.2 instructions which the CPU doesn’t support. Ergo 23H2 is the newest Windows 11 version that can run on this system, with only the Education and Enterprise still receiving security updates, making it a bit of a pyrrhic victory, especially as Windows 7 benchmarks a fair bit faster on the same hardware.

This week, we’re shaking things up a little, with Tom Nardi still in the host seat, and someone besides Al Williams in the other, namely Kristina Panos.

In Hackaday news, we have a new Frikkin’ Lasers Challenge going on now, although we acknowledge that no one can actually enter their project into it at the moment. We hope to have that fixed in short order. Procrastinators, disregard.

You’ll have to wait another week for the triumphant return of What’s That Sound, but we do have an audio mailbag for you this week. Thanks, Dillon!

We look at loading SEGA games from a vinyl record, discuss a really cool project that puts live plane data on your ceiling, and debate the name ‘PopTuber’. We also discuss DIY routers, and stress over the future of electronic shelf labels.

Check out the links below if you want to follow along, and as always, tell us what you think about this episode in the comments!

Download in DRM-free MP3 and share it with your favorite PopTuber.

Episode 372 Show Notes:

News:

• The Frikkin Lasers Contest Starts Now

Mailbag:

• Dillon asks the crew whether they take notes while working on projects, and how. And how!

Interesting Hacks of the Week:

• Texas Instruments Changes The NE5532 And Others Into Incompatible Versions
• Loading Sega Genesis Games Off A Vinyl Record
  • VCF East 2018: The Mail Order App Store
• Make Your Ceiling Disappear With ADS-B And Short-Throw Projector
• Like A Wire Bender, But For Pop Tubes
  • GETULA
• An RGB Keyboard For Your Hackaday Communicator Badge
  • Announcing The 2025 Hackaday Superconference Communicator Badge
• DIY Ceramic Circuit Boards Surely Count As Solarpunk

Quick Hacks:

• Tom’s Picks:
  • Ways To Embed Magnets In 3D Prints And Not Ruin Printers
  • Fixing A Nintendo Game Boy Clone That Runs Too Fast
  • Ebike Display Uses Reflective LCD
• Kristina’s Picks:
  • A Camera Viewfinder Makes A Great TV
  • The Uncooperative Mirror Will Not Help You
  • A Diffraction Grating Makes This Clock Readable

Can’t-Miss Articles:

• Revisiting Making Your Own Internet Router In 2026
• Ask Hackaday: How Do You Feel About Electronic Shelf Labels?

We are all in search of the fastest in a wireless router, to give ourselves the best connectivity to the world. But what about the slowest? Gigabit Ethernet may not be for everyone, as Matt Deeds demonstrates with bit-banged 10baseT Ethernet on a Raspberry Pi Pico 2W.

The project is written in Rust, and is in part a port of an earlier project. It makes use of Ethernet magnetics, but the rest of the works is all done in software. He says it’s full-speed on transmit and reduced speed on receive, but we’re guessing if you’re using 10baseT in 2026 then speed isn’t your number one concern anyway. It provides a WiFi router as well as a wired connection, making it possibly the cheapest Ethernet to wireless solution possible.

We like projects that extract the last ounce of power from a part to make it do something its designers never intended. In this case we’ve seen a few other bit-banged Ethernet projects before, even another on the Pi Pico.

Some security hacks require someone to have physical access to your computer. In many cases, that’s easy to mitigate. Other attack vectors can put you at risk from anywhere via the network. That’s what firewalls are for. But there is an in-between risk where an attacker just has to be “around” your computer. [Rasmus Moorats] found out that a Creative Sound Blaster sound bar could open up just such an attack.

[Rasmus] was poking around the firmware just to write custom software to control it. The possibility of an attack was just an accidental find.

The soundbar connects to USB, but it also has Bluetooth, which, for some reason, is always on. There’s an app that can communicate with the speaker using BLE, and Creative has a special protocol to control it. The same protocol works on USB or Bluetooth, but with an important difference.

On USB, you have to authenticate to send commands. However, you can easily decompile the provided apps and learn the authentication key. But on BLE, it doesn’t require authentication at all for some reason. You can simply send commands via BLE, and the speaker obeys. No pairing. No physical access. Just be close enough for a Bluetooth connection.

The worst of the commands lets you reflash the device firmware. So, if you were a bad actor, you could flash firmware to act as a USB keyboard and then inject lots of bad commands into the host system.

BLE seems to be a common vector in consumer electronics. Maybe now you have to air-gap your speakers, too.

Adding magnets to a 3D print can be very useful in a design, but there are some things that can trip you up if you’re not away of them. In a recent video by [Lost in Tech] some of the essentials are covered, including why you shouldn’t get magnets near most extruder nozzles or the printing bed.

The easiest method is of course to add magnets in after printing, using friction fit with or without ribs, or with a dab of glue. Here making sure that the magnet stays in place is the trick, as you do not want the magnet to get lost or end up in the tummy of a curious pet or toddler.

Things get spicy when you’re talking about adding magnets during the printing process, as some extruders are made of a ferromagnetic material and thus a magnet will happily stick to said nozzle if it’s not pure brass or similar. As seen in the video even some purported ‘brass’ nozzles aren’t pure enough to not be significantly ferromagnetic.

Another issue is that of heat, which is something that magnets generally do not like much. Using magnets like you’d use heat inserts for bolts is a recipe for disaster, as the heat from a soldering iron will demagnetize the magnet, which for the typical magnet is less than 200°C. At least this should mean that the magnet stuck to your extruder nozzle will eventually fall off by itself after it demagnetizes.

With the bed of the typical FDM printer these days you’re talking about magnetically attached plates, with the underlying heated bed using a Halbach array configuration as is typical of flat magnets, yet with the gotcha that these aren’t typically real Halbach arrays, but knock-offs with simply alternating north-south pole magnets. As it turns out, these types of magnetic arrays can be disturbed by another magnet, such as a powerful neodymium magnet near said printing bed, flipping polarity in a way that cannot be easily undone.

You can still install magnets during printing, but it’s recommended to use something like side-insertion, where the extruder nozzle cannot pull out a magnet. Regardless of your approach, it’s good to know of the risks with ferromagnetic nozzles, the magnetic bed and treating magnets like they’re just heat inserts. While you can get higher-temperature magnets, many of the same issues still remain here.

The most recent Hackaday event badge has been the Communicator, a handheld wireless terminal with a rather nice QWERTY keyboard. It’s good enough as delivered, but [makeTVee] has gone one better and made his Communicator keyboard into a fully RGB light-up experience.

The feat is achieved with the help of a new front panel holding some very thin side-emitting addressable LEDs. The keys are custom-printed, and there’s a TPU mat to hold them all together. The LEDs are driven from one of the device’s GPIOs.

We saw this badge in real life at the recent Hackaday Europe conference in Lecco, Italy. It really is as good as it looks in the video below, the care and attention which has gone into the build is extremely impressive.The original badge used a silicone cast set of keys, and we’d say if you are making a device with a keyboard then these might make a very good option.

If you’re not familiar with the Communicator, it’s worth having a look at the launch announcement.